How to photograph fit models for posture assessment

When selecting a fit model you want to pay attention to his/her posture and sideways curvature. Small bust size of a model can be changed by adding padding to a bra but ‘bad’ posture is very difficult to change for one, and in the end it will bring more trouble than fitting on a real person is worth. So, make photos, edit and analyse.

Front view: The model stands relaxed in a natural posture with his or her weight spread evenly over two feet. When she/he wears a bikini or swim pants is in fact better for editing than wearing tights and a singlet. The feet are about 20 – 25cm (8 – 10 inches) away from each other; feet may spread, just as long as this is the most natural posture. Arms fall down along the sides, hands are relaxed. The model looks straight ahead. Long hair is tied up, away from the neck. Feet are bare, no shoes with heels.

Side view: Repeat the position of the front view but the model turns 90 degrees.

Back view: Repeat the above position but now you photograph the back.

Camera position: For taking these standard photos the camera can best be placed on a tripod which does not move or change height. The photo’s should be taken:

  • always at the same distance
  • level to the floor
  • in front of a door so the doorposts are visible too
  • at midriff or navel height
  • include the whole body.

After having taken these photos you may edit them as follows:

20150506 WOMAN BALANCE TOTAL WITH LINES

Front view: place a vertical line going through the navel, see how skewed the body is. Place horizontal lines at several points to determine ‘high shoulder’ and ‘high hip’ etc. Please be aware that literally nobody is a 100% balanced. Putting in these lines will inform you how unbalanced the person is, which might be handy when you need to compare people. Also, when you proceed with a model you know upfront what imbalances you need to be aware of.

Side view: place a vertical line from the mid of the ankle up. This line ‘should’ cut the body in half, however…. this is not a perfect world. And perfectly straight posture is rare. If you find a person with perfect posture HANG ON TO THEM!!! It will make your fitting life so much easier. Having said that: you might want to consider that, if perfect posture is so rare, it is very possible that your customers do not have it either. Specifically when your customer base is above the age of 60.

Please note: in the ideal world the circles which are now drawn in the visual middle of the ear, shoulder, body at waist height, knee and ankle will be in one 1 line which is perpendicular to the floor. That is a perfect upright position.

In the photo you see a red line too, this runs from what would be the center of the shoulder head to the middle of the elbow. Ideally this line runs perpendicular to the floor too. Check out my post on shoulder position to read more about his.

Back view: not shown. On the back you might even more clearly see skewness.

Please note: it is not my purpose to make anybody feel bad about their body or looks. It is however in the profession of fashion important to make choices and choosing for a balanced fit model is choosing an average fit which suits most people. Making the right choices comes with judging what type of fit model is helpful for the company and what type not.

Basic tip 3: anybody working in fashion should do this excercise on themselves in order to gain insight in your own body and realise that being skewed and / or out of balance is actually very common.

Hope you enjoyed, you are welcome to leave questions or comments below.

Best regards, Martine

Basic body measurements – draft 3

20150504 WOMAN TOTAL ALL MEASUREMENTS

Yes! The draft 3 version of the basic bodies including all the markings and elastic bands you need for measuring. I would like to also thank you for the comments I have received on earlier work, they were of great help, so thank you!

Again, there is a little disclaimer to draft 3: a few tiny details are not totally aligned – but I can live with that. And again, please let me have your thoughts on these figurines.

Since I am not sure yet how I want to market the work in this blog I have added an all over print of my company website.

There is only one reason to mark the body as I have done and that is to measure correctly. No markings, no correct measurements.

Basic tip 2: Mark your dress form or fitting model before measuring. The results of your main and detail measurements will NOT be correct if you do not start with marking.

Want to know how to mark the dress form or fitting model? Stay tuned!

Please feel free to place your comments or questions in the reply area below.

Best regards, Martine

On tape-measures – 1

Hi there,

I’ve started this new blog to share the fun and expertize I find in puzzling with patterns and the fitting of clothing. And also to inform you of things that might help you produce a better fitted garment, to safe time, money, Fedex costs and environment.

If it is your job to comment on samples, to do fitting, make patterns, specs or garments you might want to bookmark this blog – so you will not miss out any of the tips and tricks that will be published. Also, when you study fashion or garment technology you are very welcome here.

It is my intention to blog about subjects that are important to the whole field of garment technology. I have decided to start of with the basics: very important but often forgotten or not paid attention to because ‘too busy’. I found that not paying attention to certain details in the process actually delays it and will ensure that you either have bad fit or miss deadlines.

So here is Basic tip 1:

I once visited a company where everybody had different types of tape-measures, some were professional, some were dollar-store quality, Some were new, some were old, some were used a lot, some not. Well, exactly like in almost every fashion company. And eventhough the lettering of all tape-measures said they were 150cm in total – at measuring them we found out that several actually had a different length….

No! Not kidding you. Friends of mine in the industry have found exactly the same. The difference might be 1cm but I have found 4cm too.

When checking this one face turned bright red…. ‘This explains why I always argue with my interns about ‘them not measuring the long measurements correctly’. Auch!

So, here is tip one: make sure you have a metal ruler of at least 50cm in your office and check your tape-measure ever so now and then. Chuck the stretched ones, the broken ones, the ones without lettering out. Better: cut them in pieces IMMEDIATELY. 🙂

Drop by in the near future to see what more we bring to the table.

Regards, Martine